Issues with new Mars 2 Pro

[Carl P]

Hi everyone,

OK so brand new Mars 2 Pro. Set up & did the test prints OK. Downloaded a STL, converted to CTB & Printed 3/4's of it. Had a couple of different models on the same build, one of them look like it fell off. NO sure if this is related to on problem or not. Mentioning it in case of some weird link.

So the problem I am experiencing is having the Hummming problem going on. Understand its the Build Plate trying to go down past the 0 level. Z Axis rod keeps spinning pushing it down. This happens each time I press the HOME button. Have tried a few times to reset the 0 level. Each time I get it right. Press the SET Z=0 and the message I get is to "Press the HOME button first them Set Zero". The only option is CONFIRM to get out of this screen. Pressing the HOME button just pushes the plate down again into the screen.

Have read in REDDIT about the Wire issue for the sensor that may be detached. Not checked this yet. Not sure if I want to open the case in case it voids the Warrantee.
Also read other articles from people who have had the same issue. Relevelling the Print bed is not the answer as it gets caught in the loop as described above.
Also read some where about putting spacers underneath a plate on the Z axis arm to cover the sensor when it reach's the lowest setting. Not done this either, not sure why it should be necessary.

Going around in circles.

Any one else seen this issue? Does it need a Firmware upgrade? Is there any other way to "Factory Reset" the printer?

Thanks in Advance for any help or suggestions.

Carl

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Hi everyone,
Figured it out. It was the order of levelling the build plate. Was doing it with the screws tight. Now I understand how it works.

Thank all.
Carl

[Carl P]

Hi everyone,

OK so its doing it again. Have had to remove the Build Plate & clean it 4 times today. Making sure that I level it with the Screws loose. Tighten then Set Zero. Seams to work going HOME without the tank but when with the tank continues to try & push through the screen.

WTF!!!!

Instructions in BOX are badly written. No support except for here and no one is answering. NO one ever mentioned needing to relevel every time build plate is removed.


Girl Friend getting annoyed. Wants to return it to shop where it came from.

Any advice?

[billtodd]

Hi Carl,

Apologies if this is obvious but , are you using the supplied spacer card between the build plate and lcd?

Some people prefer to set the plate level using the FEP only with tank in place (I'm not a fan of this)

Once the plate is set it is usually OK until something fails to print and shifts it slightly .

If none of the above apply , then have a search of the forum for instructions how to ZERO the Z axis and reset the HOME position.

Bill

[Carl P]

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Hello Again,

So after my last post I managed to get the printer to work for a day or two. Then the prints started to fail every time. The prints would come away from the supports and drop into the resin tank. I got really good at cleaning out the tank. Empty the remaining resin into a spare bottle. Clean the tank with IOS. Clean the screen with IOS. Relevel the build plate with a piece of A4 paper cut to size. Must have done it 7 times at least. Finally in frustration I left it sit for 2 weeks. Then after two weeks I had another look at it. Still doing the same thing. Failing on every print. Which is weird as the supports print normally and are still attached to the build plate. Its the print itself hat fails. So went to do some You Tube research. Watched a couple of videos on replacing the FEP. OK, so maybe this is the cause of the fault. Replaced the FEP with a spare supplied in the box. One of the video's mentioned putting a sponge under the FEP with installing the new one. OK did that. Tried more prints. fail, fail, fail. Each time going through the whole cleaning process & relevelling the Build plate emptying the remaining resin into a spare ( now half full ) bottle. Cleaning the tank with ISO. Watched some more videos on You Tube. Another person mentioned that when replacing the FEP that they put a bottle cap under the FEP when replacing it as it needs to be loose for the print to detach the last created layer when it risers. OK so maybe its too tight? Replaced the FEP again. This time with some looseness built in. Fail, fail, fail. Every print still failing.


Did more research. After one of the fails I used the Tank Clean option. Did not work very well. Not the same result as in the video's. It was only like half the screen width that was done. Still had to empty the resin, & cleanout the tank as done many times before.

Tried the demo screen test and can see that half of the Elegoo name is cut off.

Trying to attach a photo but the Forum only wants http ones.


Wondering if I can factory reset the Printer? No menu option for that.

So I have put the failures down to a problem with the UV lights not working. Printer is not every two months old and has caused nothing but frustration.

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Hi Carl,

Apologies if this is obvious but , are you using the supplied spacer card between the build plate and lcd?

Some people prefer to set the plate level using the FEP only with tank in place (I'm not a fan of this)

Once the plate is set it is usually OK until something fails to print and shifts it slightly .

If none of the above apply , then have a search of the forum for instructions how to ZERO the Z axis and reset the HOME position.

Bill

Thanks for the reply Billtodd.

I didnt get a spacer card. The manual states to use a piece of A4 paper. Have to cut it down to fit between the two Tank Screw towers. But thats all good. Think I am getting very good at levelling the Build Plate now. Have done it heaps of times.

[billtodd]

Apologies for late reply - PC problems :-(

The card is considerably thicker than a piece of paper. I measure 0.44mm for the supplied card and v 0.10 for paper.

I would try using 3 or more pieces of paper or the FEP film direct.

[SPfenning]

If I may add some info : To home a buildplate, is for the printer to get information about where the buildplate is located along the Z-axis. The "0-leveling"-procedure is required, so the printer knows at what level of the Z-axis the FEP-film is at the resinvat. For this reason I recommend to use an empty resinvat to use for "0-leveling". An alternative is -as widely suggested- to use a thin paper sheet or use the thick papersheet which comes with the printer. The FEPfilm is usually 150 micron thick. Some use 100 micron as it is cheaper (but also more flexible).
If I'm not mistaken this thick leveling-paper included with a printer is more thick than the FEPfilm used in the resinvat. I think you can imagine what it means for the first layer to print.